2020 is a year we can be very glad to see in the rear view mirror.
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Coming hot on the heels of bushfires and sustained drought, a devastating global pandemic was so cruel as to be nearly comical.
However, there are some things to be thankful for. Domestic tourism to Orange is stronger than ever and signs of population drift towards the region bodes well for the 2021 dining scene.
Meanwhile Charred Kitchen and Bar has rolled with the punches, adapted to acknowledge the "new normal" and emerged as the clear premium dining destination in the region.
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Orange born and Bathurst raised chef patron Liam O'Brien is serving up refined and innovative cuisine that can hold its head high in the company of the best in Australia's major centres. A beverage list curated and dispensed by the incomparable David Collins ensures that everything Charred's diners put in their mouths is of exceptional quality.
Perceptions of regional fine dining can tend towards dated and conservative fare as venues often replicate tired old classics for an aging and unadventurous market.Since opening in 2016 O'Brien has been unafraid to break that mold, offering a constantly evolving menu that showcases his creativity and enterprising spirit.
Due to popular demand a dish might occasionally take up long term or recurring residency on the menu, such as the hummus with sucuk sausage and pickled chillies. But generally the offering is kept fresh and seasonal as O'Brien's openness to influences and restless energy ensure that change is the real constant.
Charred is not just about wild experimentation however. This chef has some serious cooking chops.
An apprenticeship that began in Bathurst and was completed at David Thompson's revolutionary Darley Street Thai.
More years of training were spent at iconic Sydney restaurants Bentley Dining, Universal, and Bistro Moncur during its heyday as one of Australia's best French restaurants. O'Brien found his first head chef role at Pyrmont institution Alira before honing his skills abroad in kitchens in the Carribean, Bali and Thailand.
This rich tapestry of experience drives the open mindedness of a menu at Charred that defies cliched labelling. "I don't want to be restricted to just one cuisine or style. If a couple of ingredients go well together you can usually make it work if you cook them properly."
I want to do something for the locals who don't want a full meal, just a glass of wine and a few nibbles.
- Liam O'Brien
Ultimately a desire to settle down with his young family and a rediscovery of his home region's outstanding produce saw him return to his roots.
An appreciation of our celebrated growers extends to the menu.
O'Brien proudly highlights the contributions made by the likes of Nashdale's Thornbrook Orchard, Farmer Doug's Spuds of Millthorpe and Orange's farmer to the stars, Greg Kocanda of Block 11 Organics.
A custom made wood burning wrought iron oven is the perfect instrument to unite great produce and refined cooking skills with a distinct "charred" flavour.
Charred's approach of thinking outside the box goes beyond the food and wine offering.
When Covid-19 slammed the door shut on food businesses across the nation O'Brien held strong. Charred pivoted to a temporary takeaway model for three months of tough slog. An automated booking system allowed staff to focus their time on improving the product and the tasting menu concept brought benefits to both the business and it's customers.
When the nation emerged from lockdown O'Brien's perseverance was rewarded with a steady flow of grateful customers that have regularly filled the dining room to capacity.
Further innovation is planned for 2021 as he intends to open a small area within the restaurant for bar snacks and drinks. "I want to do something for the locals who don't want a full meal, just a glass of wine and a few nibbles."
No doubt it'll be yet another avenue for delicious creativity and innovation.
RECIPE OF THE WEEK
- Charred's Hummus with Sucuk & Guandillias
INGREDIENTS
- 2 cups of chick peas - (best quality available) Soaked overnight
- 150 ml best quality olive oil
- 100 ml of grapeseed oil
- 1 whole bulb of organic garlic (6-8 cloves) (or best quality available NEVER USE PRE-PEELED)
- Ground cumin to taste
- Lemon juice and zest to taste
- Salt to taste
- 100 grams of sucuk (Turkish sausage) we use mild sucuk from a halal butcher in Maroubra
- 3-4 guandillias - Pickled long green chillis
- Sumac
METHOD
- Strain and rinse the chick peas and place into a pot of seasoned water.
- Bring to the boil and then simmer for an hour or until completely tender.
- Strain the chick peas into a blender, reserving the cooking liquid. Add some cooking liquid to the blender until the chick peas are half covered.
- Blend until smooth, then add the garlic, cumin, lemon juice and zest.
- While the blender is running slowly pour in the oils gradually until incorporated.
- Serve with cooked and broken sucuk, guandillas & toasted flatbread
Richard Learmonth is an experienced chef and will be writing a food column for the Central Western Daily every second week.
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