However, there are still plenty of good times to be squeezed out of 2020 as December marks that most wonderful time on the produce calendar; the beginning of stone fruit season.

For me the highlight of the fruit season in Orange is the cherries.

Perhaps it's because they're the first arrival to herald a new season of promise after the long and fruitless winter in which fresh fruit has given way to preserves.

It could even be the nostalgic memories they invoke of summertime relaxation and festive family gatherings.

From a chef's perspective I think you can't go past the deep rich flavour of a sun ripened cherry that bursts with sweetness and just enough acidity to keep things honest.

Cherries are versatile enough to be a component for every course of a meal.

They're the perfect size for snacking, make a punchy addition to salads, have enough richness to get along well with most meats, can be beautifully paired with spices and chilli, and make the most luxurious of desserts.

Paula Charnock runs Thornbrook Orchard in Nashdale where "pick your own" cherries have become available daily to the public from this week.

Thornbrook Orchard is a family affair that was first established in 1947 by Paula's grandparents and continued by her parents.

Besides cherries the orchard produces apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums, figs, apples, pears, and table grapes which are sold at the farm gate as well as various farmers markets.

There are 20 varieties of cherries growing at Thornbrook, from the early season Merchants, the older variety Ron's Seedling, Bing, Lapin, Sweet Georgia and the late season Sweetheart cherries.

Depending on the conditions the season can be spread across a period of weeks from late November to Christmas or even perhaps early January. Also grown are the highly prized morello, or sour, cherries.

Like all farmers in the region cherry growers have been affected by the drought.

Crop yields have struggled with some fruit never reaching picking size.

In 2019 Thornbrook's fruit production was only about half of the usual amount.

The unpredictability of summer storms is always a concern as ripe cherries on the tree are highly vulnerable but Paula is hopeful that, weather permitting, this year we can expect a much better season.

"Our season's looking good. Everything's a good size so as long as we can keep pests and diseases at bay it'll be a good season," she said.

Like many businesses in the region Paula has also seen a surge in demand from domestic tourists exploring the region.

"We always get a lot of interest but it seems that now there's a few people coming who haven't been before. The hardest thing is convincing people that we have 20 varieties so they don't all need to come in the first weekend."

Cherry Clafoutis

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